Backyard Travels: Oceanside

For the first time that day, both of the Graham children were completely silent. As the sun slipped behind the pier and rested atop the ocean, the sky caught fire and covered our faces in flower-petal orange. Daylight slowly faded, and we all felt the urge to whisper, like a quiet, meaningful moment had passed among everyone sitting together, here on the beach.

That moment is a nightly ritual for folks who live and visit Oceanside, a quaint but bustling little gem of a town tucked just below the Camp Pendleton Marine Base. While the military presence is undeniable (you'll find lots of military surplus shops in town), the vibe here is distinctly "aloha."

The scenic centerpiece in town is the wooden 1,942-foot Oceanside Pier, which juts out into the Pacific to give landlubbers a far-reaching view of surfers Hanging 10 and dolphins passing through the waves. Hungry ocean-gazers and fisher folks can duck into Ruby's Diner to sip chocolate shakes as they soak up the views.

Sunsets and the more than three miles of beaches are prime and pristine in Ocanside, but there are other pursuits here, too. Families can hole up to rejuvenate after treks to nearby Disneyland, Legoland, the San Diego Zoo and Sea World. Or better yet, just stay in town and relax. History buffs should download the Historic Photo Walk (www.msoceanside.com) brochure to find out where Bob Hope ate dinner (the 101 Café) and Barbara Mandrell graduated from high school.

Ready for an '80s flashback? Check out the original bungalow where Kelly McGillis wooed Tom Cruise in the 1986 movie, Top Gun. The property is part of a big chunk of land that has been slated for a new resort, but developers have plans to incorporate the little house into its designs. The city is even celebrating the 25th anniversary of the movie's release on Memorial Day Weekend with a screening on the beach and a celebrity volleyball tournament.

My kids loved the California Surf Museum (www.surfmuseum.org), a small but cheerfully operated nonprofit space dedicated to showcasing all aspects of the sport. The museum's recent "Women on Waves" exhibit made waves, and the new  "Transitional Thinking: A Short Story 1966-1972" will highlight how surfing's aesthetics meshed with the era's cultural climate. Admission is $3 for adults (free for kids younger than 12) and is free on "Aloha Tuesdays."

The trek a little farther inland to the Mission San Luis Rey (www.sanluisrey.org) delivers an entirely different slice of history. The stark-white "King of the Missions" was founded in 1798 and offers an architectural and cultural peek into California's rich history. Wander in to see this largest of the 21 California missions and scope out its unique wooden dome. Learn more by touring the museum, too (admission is $4 for adults).



Oceanside is located 100 miles south of Los Angeles and 38 miles north of downtown San Diego. For more information on Oceanside's attractions, eateries, hotels and events, visit http://visitoceanside.org.