Friday
Jun192009
Tracking the Truck Taco
Friday, June 19, 2009 at 02:36PM
Ever since I moved to Los Angeles nine years ago, I've been on a quest to find the perfect taco. It's a worthwhile pursuit and not nearly as easy as it sounds.
As a native New Mexican, I'm allowed a bit of snobbery. My palate has been spoiled by the ladies of the state's indigenous cultures who make flour tortillas right before your eyes – as your mouth waters. My taste buds tingle at the thought of the fiery green chile that is produced in the fertile fields of the Mesilla Valley, where I grew up. I quest for the deep-fried dough known as the sopaipilla – perfectly crispy and drizzled with honey – that is virtually unknown in these lands.
But I have also come to realize that while Los Angeles might not produce the New Mexican cuisine that I know and love, the evolution of the taco here is to be savored and appreciated in its own light. The influences of many cultures have brought wild and fabulous variations on this simple recipe of meat wrapped in corn. Even the Korean culture has brought its influence, adding
kimchi and other flavors and creating a cult frenzy of Kogi BBQ Truck followers (I've yet to find the patience to stand in that line, although it's high on the list).
And the latest to enter the taco truck craze? The Border Grill, a popular franchise from Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of "Too Hot Tamales" fame. I've enjoyed their cuisine both at the Border Grill in Santa Monica (for a partilarly fabulous anniversary meal) and Ciudad downtown. So I might just stand in line when their truck pulls up to the Melrose Trading Post on Sunday, June 21, to try the carne asada or cilantro chicken tacos.
You can stalk it like me on Twitter, so you don't miss your shot when it pulls up at a location near you.
As a native New Mexican, I'm allowed a bit of snobbery. My palate has been spoiled by the ladies of the state's indigenous cultures who make flour tortillas right before your eyes – as your mouth waters. My taste buds tingle at the thought of the fiery green chile that is produced in the fertile fields of the Mesilla Valley, where I grew up. I quest for the deep-fried dough known as the sopaipilla – perfectly crispy and drizzled with honey – that is virtually unknown in these lands.
But I have also come to realize that while Los Angeles might not produce the New Mexican cuisine that I know and love, the evolution of the taco here is to be savored and appreciated in its own light. The influences of many cultures have brought wild and fabulous variations on this simple recipe of meat wrapped in corn. Even the Korean culture has brought its influence, adding
kimchi and other flavors and creating a cult frenzy of Kogi BBQ Truck followers (I've yet to find the patience to stand in that line, although it's high on the list).And the latest to enter the taco truck craze? The Border Grill, a popular franchise from Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of "Too Hot Tamales" fame. I've enjoyed their cuisine both at the Border Grill in Santa Monica (for a partilarly fabulous anniversary meal) and Ciudad downtown. So I might just stand in line when their truck pulls up to the Melrose Trading Post on Sunday, June 21, to try the carne asada or cilantro chicken tacos.
You can stalk it like me on Twitter, so you don't miss your shot when it pulls up at a location near you.
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